Just a few meters away from the Kishasha River in the Nkuringo region of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, our ranger stops us once again. “We have about 10 minutes to the mountain gorillas,” he announces. It’s the same line he gave us 20 minutes ago, and now, I’m feeling the weight of exhaustion, no smiles, no energy left. My groupmates, too, are asking for breaks every five minutes. We’ve been trekking for nearly an hour and a half in search of Uganda’s renowned gentle giants.
With each step, I repeat to myself, “Just 10 more minutes.” But having joined a group of tour operators and journalists from the ASEAN region; Thailand, Vietnam, the Philippines, Indonesia, and Malaysia hosted by the Uganda Embassy in Malaysia and Uganda Tourism Board, I feel a responsibility to stay upbeat. Despite my tiredness, I push on, trying to remain positive for the group.
There are stretches of silence as we continue our trek, and I can’t help but wonder if it really will take just 10 more minutes. To be completely honest, this is my first time trekking the mountain gorillas, even though I’ve written about them countless times. If you heard me speak about these magnificent creatures, you might think I had trained as a ranger in one of Uganda’s famous gorilla destinations. Gorilla trekking in Uganda takes place in two main locations: Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. So, I’m eager for the chance to finally see them in person.
As I walk, images of mountain gorillas from the internet flood my mind. Quietly, I continue to follow the ranger, staying behind in line with our last ranger. Suddenly, he taps me on the shoulder and whispers, “Look where I’m looking.” I turn, and there it is; a young male gorilla, known as a “blackback,” resting in a tree.
The guide informs us we’re just three minutes away, but now, my heart is racing. I’ve finally seen a gorilla, and my excitement is palpable. It feels like encountering a long-lost relative you haven’t seen in years; though, who knows? Some human history suggests we evolved from apes, so perhaps I came from this very gorilla family.
With renewed energy, I want to walk faster, but the ranger halts us for the final briefing on the dos and don’ts of gorilla interactions. He reassures us that we’re just a minute away, and this time, I believe him. This is no longer just another motivational line to keep us going. The guides truly deserve recognition for their patience and dedication.
Now, the atmosphere is electric. Tourists are thrilled, the rangers are smiling, and the porters are eager to carry our bags. Everyone’s pulling out their phones, ready to capture the moment. This is the moment we’ve all been waiting for, the divine hour. We are in the presence of the mountain gorillas, one of Uganda’s top tourist attractions. Gorilla trekking is one of the country’s most valuable tourism assets, a unique offering compared to neighboring countries like Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda, the DRC, and South Sudan.
The Uganda Embassy in Malaysia and Uganda Tourism Board had organized a 13-day tour for these buyers, and this was the highlight. Showing them something truly unique, something they can’t find anywhere else. For years, Uganda has struggled with marketing its tourism, and while Uganda Tourism Board (UTB) has held expos and exhibitions, the results haven’t always been as expected. UTB also recently launched the “Explore Uganda” app, which makes it easier to access information about Uganda, also known as the Pearl of Africa, with just one click. These strides are encouraging, but I truly believe that bringing buyers from foreign countries to experience Uganda firsthand will be the key to boosting our tourism sector. When they experience it themselves, they can sell it with authenticity and passion.
Back to Bwindi, at last, we reach the gorillas. The group we trekked to is led by a dominant silverback named Magara. The gorillas are seated calmly, watching us with curious eyes. For a few minutes, we all take in the sight, with a respectful silence between us. After a while, I feel I’ve taken enough photos, and conducted enough interviews with the buyers. A thought crosses my mind: An hour with these gorillas feels too long. But then I realize initially, the gorillas are cautious and a bit reserved, but over time, they grow more comfortable with us. It’s a fascinating process to observe.
I lock eyes with the silverback, Magara, and in that moment, everything around me seems to disappear. His deep brown eyes are serene and full of wisdom. I notice the baby gorillas playfully engaging with their mothers, completely at ease. Then, Magara suddenly pounds his chest, letting out a few low grunts, before rising to his feet. It’s a clear signal to his group. Within minutes, the gorillas begin to move around, some climb trees, others retreat into the forest’s leafy cover. It’s as if they follow his command without question.
As I check my watch, I realize we have only 10 minutes left. I wish for more time, as it still feels magical being here with them. Magara sits calmly at the center, surrounded by the rest of the group. We continue to snap endless photos, trying to capture every moment. Magara is completely unfazed by our presence, sitting peacefully as we marvel at him. If only I could learn from him to stay calm and peaceful, no matter what life throws at me. I wonder how he manages to maintain that tranquility.
But the hour is up, and we must leave. It’s time to allow the gorillas to continue their lives undisturbed. As we walk back along the muddy, rugged trails, there is a quiet hush among the group. I wonder to myself, “Did I really just see gorillas? Was that real?” The experience has been incredibly humbling, and the awe still lingers.
As we continue our descent, the group begins to talk again, and I engage the buyers to hear their thoughts. They are all thrilled and in awe. “This is exactly what Uganda should be selling to the world. It’s so unique and magical,” one of them says. Curiously I ask for their feedback on what could be improved.
The first thing they mention is the condition of the roads. We had to walk from the Uganda Wildlife Authority office through the local community to the starting point, but the road was difficult to navigate, making the journey even more taxing. We were already tired by the time we reached the starting point. But remember road and infrastructure improvement has been a long-discussed issue, and while the government has made promises, they haven’t always been followed through.
However, we also pointed out that Bwindi has four gorilla trekking regions—Buhoma, Ruhija, Rushaga, and Nkuringo. While Nkuringo is the most challenging to access, it still has temporary starting points depending on where the gorillas spend the night. So the stressing access shouldn’t be an issue to their travellers coming to Uganda for the gorillas.
Another challenge I personally realized was the lack of affordable accommodation in Nkuringo. Most hotels in the region start at around $300 USD per night, which can be a barrier for average travelers. There’s a clear need for more affordable options, and I believe an investor who caters to this market would not only help meet demand but also be quite successful.
Despite these challenges, the trip was nothing short of amazing, and I hope the hosted buyers return to their countries, sharing their firsthand experiences of Uganda’s mountain gorillas, just as I have shared mine. There is something truly magical about Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, and I am grateful to have been able to witness it firsthand